Street food

Lore & Background

In ancient Greece, small fried fish was a street food, though the philosopher Theophrastus held the custom in low regard. Evidence of a large number of street food vendors was discovered during the excavation of Pompeii. Street food was widely consumed by poor urban residents of ancient Rome whose tenement houses did not have ovens or hearths. Chickpea soup with bread and grain paste were common meals. A travelling Florentine reported in the late 14th century that in Cairo, people brought picnic cloths made of rawhide to spread on the streets and sit on while they ate meals of lamb kebabs, rice, and fritters purchased from street vendors. In Renaissance Turkey, many crossroads had vendors selling 'fragrant bites of hot meat,' including chicken and lamb that had been spit-roasted. In 1502, Ottoman Turkey became the first country to legislate and standardize the sale of street food. In the Americas, Aztec market places had vendors selling beverages such as atolli, almost 50 types of tamales, as well as insects and stews. During the American Colonial period, street vendors sold oysters, roasted corn ears, fruit, and sweets at low prices to all classes. Oysters were cheap and popular until around 1910 when overfishing and pollution caused prices to rise. Street vendors in New York City faced considerable opposition, and while restrictions and regulations were imposed, a complete ban by 1707 is not supported by established historical canon. Many women of African descent made their living selling street foods in America in the 18th and 19th centuries, with products ranging from fruit, cakes, and nuts in Savannah to coffee, biscuits, pralines and other sweets in New Orleans. In Asia, the selling of street food in China stretches back millennia and became an integral part of Chinese food culture during the Tang Dynasty. In ancient China, street food primarily catered to the poor, but as urban centers grew, it became a culinary staple for all classes.

Reader's Guide

Street food has been a persistent feature of urban life across civilizations, from ancient Rome to modern Bangkok. Its significance lies in its accessibility and affordability, providing daily nutrition and job opportunities for millions, especially in developing countries. The 2007 FAO study indicating 2.5 billion daily consumers underscores its global scale. Street food also reflects cultural exchange: Chinese diaspora spread street food culture across Southeast Asia, while colonial encounters created fusion foods. Governments increasingly recognize both its socioeconomic importance and associated risks, such as food safety, sanitation, and traffic congestion. The first known legislation standardizing street food sale occurred in Ottoman Turkey in 1502, and Singapore's hawker centres were incorporated into UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2020. Street food continues to evolve, with regional variations driving culinary tourism. Its legacy is one of resilience and adaptation, serving as a vital economic sector and a repository of culinary traditions.

Did You Know?

• According to a 2007 study from the Food and Agriculture Organization, 2.5 billion people eat street food every day.
• Ottoman Turkey became the first country to legislate and standardize the sale of street food in 1502.
• Street food vendors in New York City were completely banned by 1707.
• Singapore's hawker centres were incorporated into UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage on 16 December 2020.